MR2 Checklist

Last modified on May 30, 2018 9:06 PM

Mod Ideas

Low-priority Parts to get

  • Another defroster switch, for the right side, to toggle fog lights.
  • New seat belts
  • New rubber seals everywhere
  • Rear window visor

Misc. Work

  • Upgrade front calipers/rotors to 87+
  • Replace alternator
  • Tighten alternator belt
  • Get car waxed and paint touched up
    • Possible color code 150? Check driver’s side door jam. “A typical code will look like C/TR: 1D4/FH13, and 1D4 would be the color code in this example.”
  • Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
  • Clean and paint inside of trunk with anti-corrosion stuff
  • Replace front ball joints
  • Replace bushings
    • Something like this
  • Replace missing throttle bracket screw (Gm# 11561025 (m6x1.0x16))
  • Do air filter mod
  • Put in new spark plugs
  • Buy new HT leads
  • Replace distributor cap
  • Fix Exhaust Rattle
  • Fix Driver’s Side Seat-belt
  • Fix Windshield Mister
    • I’m just an idiot this has worked the whole time.
  • Fix parking brake
    • Turns out if the brake light is staying on that just means the brake fluid is low



Fog Lights

The regular headlights are weak and not very rally car. Adding foglights seems like a pretty easy mod.


Suspension Work

  • Strut Replacement
  • Strut Top Replacements
  • Front-right strut mount is loose or something. It’s a bit fucked.


  • Fix Headlight Skew
  • Fog-lights?

Clean out TPS

Update Feb. 11 2017

Car sounds terrible. Power loss. The exhaust sounds different now. I can feel hitching sometimes as the car is accelerating or maintaining speed with the accelerator in. I can smell burning upon exiting the car. Something is very wrong. Muffler/exhaust work might need to be done now for real.

Update: Put in a new muffler, helked a lot. Also replaced the spark plugs.

Update Nov. 30 2017

Took the car into the shop to get a bunch of stuff done, heft price but overall good:

  • Fix multiple oil leaks (Finally getting valve cover gaskets replaced)
  • Inner tie-rode ends are loose and need fixed
  • Squeaky front-struts

To ask: * Good snow/dirt all-season all-terrain tires * Lift? Coilovers?


  • Confirming Rod Knock
    • It has rod knock. We tore off the oil pan and the crank journal was fucked.
  • [X] Bleed brakelines so we can rotate the rear wheels
  • [] Move Battery up Front (improves weight distribution, frees up engine bay)
  • [] Replace rear brake pads
  • [] Replace Exhaust. nameless performance rally cat.

Rat2 MotorSports sells a lot of MR2 stuff, and they’re up in Seattle.

Good pricing for used parts here.

I bought a white 1985 MR2 for $400. It doesn’t run but it’s hilarious. This is the cost breakdown, so far.

Dropping the engine Checklist

All from D4A and it’s very good.

  • X Drain coolant from engine
  • X Drain coolant from radiator
  • X Disconnect and remove battery
  • X Remove air flow meter
  • X Remove coolant overflow tank
  • x Remove throttle body
  • X Remove throttle bracket
  • X Remove brake booster hose
  • X Remove coolant filler neck
  • Disconnect oil cooler lines
  • Disconnect all the wire harness connections to the engine. There’s a quite a bit of these. Take it easy and it one by one. Don’t yank and don’t be aggressive. Gently bend harness away from engine once you disconnect everything.
  • X Fuel delivery pipes and fuel rail. (You need to crank the car without it turning over several times to relieve the fuel pressure before doing this. Do this by removing the ECU fuse. Google it, its easy)
  • X EGR piping and EGR vacuum modulator and valve
  • X Vacuum lines/ hoses
  • X Remove the Intake manifold (the T-VIS thing)
  • X Exhaust piping, muffler, cat (if you have one), etc
  • x Remove v-belt and alternator
  • X Exhaust manifold
  • X Remove clutch hose
  • X Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing and cylinder head
  • X Disconnect shift (transmission) cables
  • X Remove drive shafts
  • X If I missed something you will notice it. I repeat: Big Green Book. Do not start removing the engine untl you are 100% sure there is nothing in its way.
  • X Unbolt engine mounts
  • X Hoist engine so the chain hoist holds up all the weight
  • X Drop engine

Expenses (so far)

  • MR2 Initial Purchase - 400.00
    • Includes extra set of OEM wheels
    • Includes aluminum rims with studded tires
  • Towing - 112.00 - 6 hours
    • Tow-hitch for the 4unner - 24.95
    • Full-trailer for a day - 88.00
  • Misc. Battery Stuff - 40.00
    • Wire Stripper/Cutting Tool - 12.00
    • 10/12 Gage Wire - 5.00
    • New Battery Lead - 2.99
  • Random Shopping - 27.65
    • Random battery powered floodlight - 9.99
    • 12x Terry Towels - 4.99
    • Turkey Baster (for brakes) - 3.99
    • Brake Fluid - 4.99
    • Brakleen - 3.69
  • Random Parts Organizer - 8.99
  • Impact Driver - 241.95
    • Impact driver socket set - 44.99
    • Dewalt Chordless Impact Driver - 92.99
    • Dewalt Battery Charger - 67.99
    • Knock off batteries (2x) - 35.99
  • New Motor - 500.00 - ~6 hours
    • Came with a lot of goodies, including gasket kit, timing belt, oil pump, water pump, new piston heads, new crankshaft, new main/rod barings
  • Misc. Supplies - 34.63
    • Shop Towels - 3x 3.33
    • Carb. Cleaner
    • Degreaser
    • Black Silicon Gasket stuff
  • Deep 30mm Socket - 6.50
  • Engine Hoist + Leveller - 235.00
    • Note: Veen bought these
  • Random Tools/Electrical Parts - 50.00
    • Big monkey wrench - 17.99
    • Various wires/connectors/etc.
  • Exhaust wrap - 15.99
  • Oil filter puller - 9.99
  • Wire Brushes
    • Brass - 5.18
    • Steel 6.94
  • Silicon Hose Replacement Kit - 65.70
  • Rear tie-rod ends - 119.00
  • Engine Block Machining - 600
    • Resurfacing
    • Dunking
    • Overboring
  • Head Machining - 463.10
    • Dunking
    • Resurfacing
    • All the fiddly bits


“Safari” Porsches:

ECU Stuff

Door Cards

Light Mods

A light delete on the #NewR2 might save a lot of weight, and leave me with a good component to sell on ebay.

Places to Race

Shelton, WA Pat’s Acres rally